Oyama Shrine: The Golden Warrior and His Brave Wife

Oyama Shrine

(Kanazawa City, Ishikawa)

【Toshiie to Matsu（”利家”と”まつ”）】 were a famous samurai couple who lived during the turbulent warring states period in the late 16th century. They stood together not only on the battlefield but also through the political power struggles of the era.

Maeda Toshiie（利家） was known from a young age for his bravery and flamboyant style. He earned the nickname "Yari no Mataza" (“Mataza of the Spear”) after distinguishing himself in battle with a spear over 6 meters long. Clad in golden armor covered in gold leaf and wearing a tall golden helmet, he was said to resemble a golden war god on the battlefield—rallying allies and intimidating foes alike.

His wife, Matsu（まつ）, was intelligent and strong-willed. She endured many hardships alongside Toshiie and played a key role in preserving the Maeda clan. Her wisdom and wide network of connections helped ease tensions with powerful political figures. When conflict arose with the ruling shogunate, Matsu offered herself as a hostage to ensure the clan’s survival. Thanks to her courageous act, the Maeda clan was able to maintain its rule over Kaga (present-day Ishikawa Prefecture) and flourish as one of Japan’s most powerful feudal domains.

In Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture, you’ll find Oyama Shrine, dedicated to both Toshiie and Matsu. The shrine features a statue of Toshiie on horseback and a replica of his iconic tall golden helmet.

The equestrian statue shows Toshiie holding a three-pronged spear, with a large billowing cloth on his back called a “horo”. This protective gear, designed to deflect arrows from behind, was a mark of honor worn by elite warriors and made them easily identifiable on the battlefield.

The tall golden helmet was modeled after the traditional headwear, called eboshi made from lacquered washi paper or hemp, worn by adult men during formal occasions. The original helmet is a treasured cultural artifact passed down through the Maeda clan. It is rarely shown to the public, but on special occasions, it will be displayed in a museum.

Oyama Shrine is also known for its unique main gate, which blends Japanese, Western, and Chinese architectural styles. Completed in 1875, the three-story structure features a brick base and arched stained-glass windows—an unusual sight for a Shinto shrine. At night, the colorful light filtering through the glass creates a dreamlike atmosphere that suits Toshiie’s flamboyant legacy.

The shrine grounds include a serene pond and lush gardens that showcase the beauty of each season. Cherry blossoms in spring and vibrant foliage in autumn make it a beloved spot for both tourists and locals.

Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply seeking a peaceful retreat, Oyama Shrine is a must-visit destination. Just behind it lie Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen Garden, both built under Toshiie’s rule and now iconic landmarks of Kanazawa.

Please visit the Oyama Shrine website.