The World of Thermae Romae Is Here ― Where Ancient Rome Meets Showa-Era Japan in a Tokyo Sento

Inari-Yu

(Kita City, Tokyo)

【Sento（銭湯）】 is a traditional Japanese public bathhouse. Back in the day, it was common for people to live in apartments without private baths. It was a common evening sight to see people heading to the local sento, carrying a small bucket and towel.

Today, however, the number of sento is steadily declining. Since reaching their peak in the 1960s, their numbers have been dropping due to the widespread adoption of home baths, aging facilities, and a lack of successors. By the 2020s, the number of sento in Tokyo had fallen to fewer than 500. Once a part of everyday life, sento are now considered a cultural treasure.

Despite the challenges, Inari-yu, a historic bathhouse in Tokyo’s Kita City, has been operating for over 100 years. The aging building stands on a narrow residential street, with a large wooden sign hanging above the entrance. Its three-tiered black tiled roof gives it a stately presence.

Stepping through the “noren”, traditional Japanese fabric divider, at the entrance, you’ll find a wooden shoe rack. You place your shoes inside, close the lid, and pull out a wooden key. Beyond the door lies the a traditional “bandai” reception desk, and the changing room. Inside the bathing area, a vibrant mural of Mount Fuji adorns the wall―a beloved motif in traditional sento paintings across Japan.  

Inari-yu has three bathtubs, one of them filled with extra-hot water heated to 45°C (113°F). This kind of hot bath is a hallmark of Tokyo’s traditional commoner culture. It’s said that “getting in quickly and getting out just as fast” is the cool way to do it. While local regulars find it invigorating, first-time visitors might find it quite intense. Still, once you get in, the sensation of warmth sinking into your body can be truly addictive. 

This sento was also used as a filming location for the 2012 movie Thermae Romae, starring Hiroshi Abe. The film is a unique comedy about Lucius, a Roman architect of public baths, who accidentally time-travels to modern-day Japan. There, he discovers and is inspired by Japanese bath culture, including customs like drinking bottled milk after a bath, that is a staple of Japanese sento culture.

One of the remarkable parts of the film is Hiroshi Abe’s performance, especially his facial expressions. The way he portrays Lucius’s confusion and amazement at modern conveniences is both funny and brilliantly acted.

The large sign hanging at the entrance of Inari-yu may look old, but it was actually created for the filming of Thermae Romae and was later gifted to the sento. Thanks to the movie, fans from all over Japan now visit the bathhouse. Loved by both local regulars and bathhouse enthusiasts, Inari-yu is more than just a place to take a bath — it is a living piece of culture that deserves to be preserved and cherished.  Please visit the official website Inari-yu.

Please visit the official website Inari-yu.