Paantu; Screams and Laughter Echo Throughout Village

Paantu

(Miyako Jima City, Okinawa Prefecture)

【Doro（泥）】 means mud in Japanese, referring to soft, wet, dirty, and smelly soil. The word is often used negatively. For example, when you feel embarrassed, it’s like “having mud (doro) on your face.” In such situations, you feel shame or humiliation, as if you’ve smeared mud (doro) on your face. This expression is common in both English and Japanese. Nobody wants to get mud (doro) on their face, however, people in the Shimajiri district on Miyako Island in Okinawa Prefecture are willing to have mud (doro) smeared on their faces.

Paantu is a deity of the village that visits once a year. Its entire body is covered in black, smelly mud mixed with vines and leaves, wearing a mask. On that day, three Paantu roam around the village, smearing mud on people, houses, cars—anything within reach. People dodge the Paantu to avoid getting muddy. They scream, but their faces are smiling, except for small children who cry as loud as they can. It is said if one is smeared mud by the deity, they can live healthily and avoid misfortune for the year.

It is a traditional festival of this district, designated as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, under the title “Raiho-shin, ritual visits of deities in masks and costumes”. Young men from the village wear muddy garments made of vines and holding an expressionless, muddy wooden mask on their hand over their faces. While they roam around the village, parents present new born babies to the deity for blessing. The deity smear mud on children crying loudly. They also enters new houses, touching bran-new clean walls with their dirty hands. The homeowner of the house welcome them, offering Awamori (local liquor) to the deity. Additionally, the deity rub entire body against cars, especially new ones. These blessings are mean to wish for health and avert misfortune.

After smearing mud and chasing villagers and tourists on the roads, deities refill fresh mud from the tank. No one is exempt, even the police officers managing the festival area also become targets of the deities’ attacks. A wise man wears a raincoat to protect his clothes from the mud. The district is filled with screams and laughter throughout the day.

Due to the nature of the festival, it is highly recommended to wear disposable clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty. The date of the festival is not disclosed until just before it begins. If you’re lucky, you can participate in this festival when you visit the island.