Zen Temple Where Buddhist Monks Practice Meditation and Disciplined Life

Eiheiji Temple

(Yoshida-gun, Fukui Prefecture) 

【Zen(禅)】 is a state of mind where you are perfectly calm and nothing bothers you, as if you have the mind of Buddha. You can achieve this state by practicing Zen sitting meditation. Zen was introduced to Japan in the 12th century, when the warrior class of samurai emerged. Zen’s teaching was well suited for the samurai, because it emphasized mind training through self-discipline, which matched the spirit of the warrior. 

Eiheiji located in a mountain region of Fukui Prefecture is the head temple of the Soto Zen sect, and an important place in the history of Japanese Buddhism. The temple is not only for prayers but where monks who had undergone rigorous training here spread their teachings to temples all over the country. Even in this present time of abundance and materialism, they lead a disciplined and simple life of practice.

I took a bus from Fukui Station, the capital of Fukui Prefecture, and travelled for about 30 minutes on the mountain road. I got off the bus at the Eiheiji temple town and walked along the main street lined with local souvenir shops and restaurants for visitors.

At the end of the street, a large stone-paved path leading to the inner part of the temple comes into view, separating the holy area of the temple from the worldly one. The path is surrounded by old cedar trees that created a calm and serene atmosphere. The majestic main gate called the Karamon stands at the end of the path. Only the imperial family and the abbot during his inauguration ceremony can pass through this gate.

A series of buildings are connected by corridors, with historical halls and gardens. The buildings are old, but they are clean and dust-free, polished by the monks every morning. As I walked along the corridor, I saw young trainee monks who were moving quickly. In front of the main hall, they stopped their feet, bowed, and continued to walk along the corridor. They get up at 4 a.m. and go to bed at 9 p.m. every day, devoting themselves to their daily tasks and meditation with the mindset of “I will work hard today to attain enlightenment tomorrow.”

At the exit of the temple, there are panels that described Buddha teaching. One of them describes; 

Without Practice, No emergence “To know” and “To understand” are different. Even though we know, without putting that knowledge to practice, we cannot understand. Just reading a description of a medicine’s good effects won’t cure an illness. Zen also something we cannot understand until we put it to practice. 

After visiting the temple and learning about Zen, you can enjoy the traditional foods at the temple town. Soba noodles with grated radish and thin shavings of dried bonito and Sesame Tofu are the specialities of this area. The soba noodles have a mixture of light buckwheat taste and the pungent taste of radish that go down your throat smoothly. The Sesame Tofu has a smooth texture and a rich sesame flavor that melt in your mouth. 

Off the Beaten Path Japan

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